Mad-alina

People have been asking about the little perra and how she is doing, so this would be the "dog update".

Maddie is loving life. How could one little perra not, when you have a beach open to dogs, a grand ocean that is about 70 degrees and an owner that is home all the time? A couple of days a week she may have to stay in the trailer all day; should I be in LaPaz or out doing something not dog friendly, but besides that it is go go go.

It took her about a week to figure out the waves in the ocean, but now she pretty much jumps in and swims with her head held high. I had to teach her to, "ride the wave" and to "keep her head up". As the waves would sometimes engulf her as she was trying to get out of the water and onto the beach. So now if I say, "keep your head up" she lifts it up or will turn around so her back is to the wave and it doesn't crash down on her face.

She has also just recently begun fishing. Odd, but true. Small little feeder fish jump out of the water when something is chasing them, so she sees these splashes and runs into the water and just starts swimming around trying to catch them. I call this, self-exercise. It is beautiful.

Thus far she has remained healthy and seems to have an extra bounce in her step. Her arthritis seems to be gone, and many think she is 5-6 years old and not 9 yo.

She isn't always sure what to think about this ün-neutered male dogs, but I think she likes them. She does a dance and trys to engage play when seeing them. Thank god she is fixed, otherwise my mom might be a grandmom to a bunch of puppies...since my mom thinks my eggs are drying up, at least I could give her puppies, right? A-ha- just kidding mamacita. I think my eggs haven't quite dried up yet...nor, would I call you "grandma" to my dog or her non-existent puppies.

All in all, she is well. And I'm still glad she is with me on this trip far far away...

the last weekend

I've come to the conclusion that roosters actually begin cock'a'doodle-do-ing (new word for y'all) before the sun rises. Saturday morning, at 5:30 am, my alarm went off as I'd been invited out to go deep sea fishing with a small group from the RV park, and even though it was pitch black out, the roosters where trying to wake the world up. I'm here to tell you, not much of the world was up, besides fisherman. American and Mexican.

But as I climbed onto the boat, with shorts, tank top and swim suit on (on November 25th - unbelievable to this Seattle girl), I was thankful that only the roosters and fisher-people were up. It was a gorgeous morning, with flat waters and a peacefullness that only comes from an endless ocean and a quiet town. No loud mexican music blaring from the cars, or barking of the dogs - no - just the boat slapping against the water.

I was more of a watcher, not meant to be fishing - but excited that I got to be a part of this experience. My only experience of fishing is out of Gray´s Harbor, where you load the boat up and go out to the "special" spot and drop your lines in. Here in Mexico things work differently. You first go out and find a little Mexican fishing boat where you can buy sardines to catch the Marlin and Dorado and whatever else. Next, everyone (all the local boats) go out to catch squid. So, you have maybe 7-8 different boats all in a circle trying to catch squid so they can use if for chum to catch the tuna. Some of the squid we were catching were up to 8-9 ft long. And you could see them way before you caught them (they seemed not to be the smartest creature in the water, as you could catch them easily and they eat themselves-so you could lure them with their friends). Then Congo, el capitan, threw the throttle down and off we went. Sometimes trolling for small little fish, or pulling into an area with massive other boats to catch the tuna. Apparently tuna travels as a school so if you see boats in one particular area, that is where you head. It worked, our boat was able to pull in 5 tuna's along with various other fish. Later that night I was able to have the best sushimi I've ever had...with a bit of soy sauce...mmmh.

We had to come in early as it was a busy day for everyone. But most importantly Theresa was allowing a Mexican friend to have a quincetta for her daughter at the RV park around the pool area. For those of you that don't know a quincetta (forgive the spelling-I have no idea) is a celebration of a Mexican girl turning 15, or into a woman. A-ya-ya. It is as big of a celebration as a wedding. If not more so. I didn't go to the church as I thought it might be a bit disrespectful but we went to the "arriving" at the pool. Karla was beautiful, dressed in a pink gown, with white gloves and a crown in her hair. She looked more like she was 18 than 15, but that is another story.

She stepped out of the car and was lead in by her escort where she was presented to everyone. She would do a couple of steps forward, and then turn in a full circle, and so this went on until she went full around the crowd. This celebration has a lot of pomp and circumstance - many traditions, including removing her shoes (of her childhood) and putting on high heels (the shoes of a woman). Or, giving away her prized doll to one of the girls that is under 15 as she, again, is no longer a child. So she doesn't need a doll to play with. And, as with most mexican celebrations there is a lot of loud music and dancing, eating and drinking. In all there were about 150 people in attendance, and the party went until 1:30am. It was beautiful to see, and I'm so glad we got to be apart of it, even if we were imposing a bit.

Sunday was a bit of a relaxing day, spent snorkeling and such. Well, the and such was a bit of goodwill. Theresa, the owner of the RV park is very involved in this community. Not only does she own the park, she also jointly owns the "Amazing Sports Fishing" with Congo, a local mexican fisherman. She supports the local people in their dreams, and trys to help improve all of their lives. She is very well known in town. And, she is one of the top members in the local Rotary. When I agreed to go snorkeling with this group of people I didn't really know what I was getting into - but in hindsight I'm so thankful I went. After our snorkeling, we all piled back into the various vehicles and drove up the coastal road past Cardinal, into an area named Boca de Alamo. It is a small litle pueblo without electricity or running water. And it was badly hit during hurrican John. So we were out to asses the damage and the claims the local townspeople had filed. We went house to house searching out damage and seeing if there was validity in what people were asking for. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. But that is Theresa's job - to figure out whether they need as many blocks, or bags of cement, windows, or doors as they have said or written for. And, just like the rest of the world, sometimes there are people out there trying to get free things. I was just glad I could see how these people were living, and what their lifestyles were like. By the time we all piled back into the car to head home, I was tired, it had been a long day, but amazed at all that I had seen and thankful that I was able to participate. I thank Theresa for giving me that.

Today begins a new week. Lot's of people are heading back to the States today as they must go back to the various jobs, and schools. I, will work on my spanish, and meeting more people, and most importantly getting ready to head over to the mainland. That, and try and befriend Johnny Mosley...that little cutie pot pie has a house where I swim with the dog every day. Sometimes I chat with him, all be it briefly, but I want to say, "how is it you look so young"...
And "where is your gold medal, why don't you wear it around your neck"...a-ha

Salude todo

post-thanksgiving

I'm still recovering from Thanksgiving, I'm not sure if it is from all the turkey (and associated foods) or the damn beer game Beirut that many of us played afterwards?

Thanksgiving was pretty magical for being so far away from home with no family or friends around. But that is the beauty of traveling, most especially solo. People befriend you and take you in like they have known you for years. They open not only their homes, but their hearts as well. I decided to stay at the RV park for the people have been so caring, and should I get drunk, I could easily stumble home. Although it would have been wonderful to be with my "Mexican Tios", Johnny and Regina, I would have travelled the rural, coastal road to Cardinal and I promised no more driving at night! Not to mention one of my new-found friends, KC, was leaving and I wanted to say my good-bye's.

As it it turned out, I am so thankfully I stayed at the park. The place was beautiful. We all ate out under the stars, with massive strings of lights, torches, and candles. In all, I would guess there were about 40 of us celebrating the holiday together. And there was every food imaginable at the feast. I'm not sure if food tastes better in such a beautiful setting, but it was one of the best meals I've had, complete with homemade margarita's and Pacifico's.

After the pumpkin pie and pumpkin flan were served, we were treated to yet another surprise. Placido Domingo, one of the best Mexican mechanics (or so I've heard), walked out with guitar in hand and proceeded to sing. At first, Mexican love songs (again, I'm sure being sung to me) and then popular American songs translated into Spanish. My favorite being GLORIA, not only did it remind me of Dusty, Andrea, Doug and myself being 20-something, driving on some odd road trip with Dusty strumming the guitar while all of us sang. But it also reminded me of good times. Thankfully I got most of it on video (if only I knew how to download-I'd send it out as an attachment). Apparently Placido has never sung in front of anyone there before and people didn't know what to expect - he had one of the most beautiful voices I'd heard. And for being such a shy person - he sung for the world. Or, at least for our little tropical Thanksgiving in the sand.

Then came the partying time - how could I not include that?

After all that beauty came a bit of debauchery. There are 5 youngins that came in for the holiday. Theresa and Shawn who own the park, have a 22 yo son in college. So he and his buddies come down for the holiday and bring all of the hoopla with them. I, of course, have been keeping up quite well with them for the past 4 days. Apparently they were all taking bets on how old they thought I am - they all agreed 26 yo. I'll take that! Any day of the week - oh and by the way - to my cousins in Sun Valley - Robbie, Alex and Eric - these are all your friends. So, just so you know, your 35 year old cousin can keep up with your 21-23 yo friends from home...
small world.

So after the beer drinking games, of which many of us did poorly in (Scott and I lost terribly in some game called Beirut) we all went to sleep off our turkey, our mashed potatoes, stuffing and many other yummy things...

Felize Thanksgiving

Even though I'll miss all of you, I'm excited to partake in Thanksgiving where the sun is shinning, the surf is always up and the people are forever happy.

I've heard 30-40 people will be joining our festival, both Americans, Canadians and Mexicans. Complete with four turkeys, and all the fixins. As usual, I'm in charge of the mashed potatoes...not sure how I'll peel them, or mix them for that matter, but I'm sure I'll find a way.

My best to all of you, and your families. And eat lots of gobble gobble.

-H

PS...the bike is getting worked on as we speak...By Sunday I should be all set up. Just so you all know!

Fiesta de Los Barriles

I finally got to hit my first Mexican festival this weekend. It was kind of like a "Los Barriles days" here in town. I heard it was an Independence Day, but from what I'm not sure? Mexican independence day is in September, so I can only be led to believe that it might be a "made-up" holiday to give an excuse to party? Hey, I like that!

So, we (Scott, Linda, KC) and myself decide to walk down, get some tacos and enjoy the festivities. But, most importantly we want to see the reigning of the Queen. Sweet Jeezus, there is a lot of hoopla about the reigning of this here Queen. I thought it might be like the Queen of Mexico the way everyone is talking about it!

As we walk upon the festival, I realize that Mexico has become the dumping ground of all things old. For instance, there are carnival rides for the kids (and adults). Personally I wouldn't step on the ferris wheel or anything else for that matter if you offered me $100. I think the last time the ferris wheel saw grease was 1986. But, some of the little kids rides struck an old familiar cord. I'm sure all of you remember the swing ride? And the old "wuinnie the poo" cars that circled the track. Or the bumper cars that have about a 400 square foot track and are the size of a small big wheel. Anyhow, I smartly said "no" when asked if I wished to take a ride. But los ninos were having lots of fun.

So the three of us settled down for a dinner of carne asada (10 pesos) y sopa de frijoles (10 pesos) and, of course, a Modelo. And enjoyed the entertainment of those walking around, and those in neighboring tables.

After our bellies were full we decided it might be best to go into the arena and get some seats for the upcoming "reigning". So we setteled near the stage, secured more Modelo and got ready. It began with one of the Mexican cowboys singing about how much he loves me...well, not really, but when I can't understand the songs I like to think that's what they are singing about. Am I right Aimee and Paul (Oktoberfest)? He had a great voice, and I think he was singing about his "amore", it just wasn't me.

Then the local cheerleaders came out to do a couple of "dances", or maybe cheers. Even though they were wearing the colors of my alma matter, Rainier Beach HS, (Navy/Orange/White), they didn't have quite the rhythm of my school. But they were really cute and worth all of the hoopla.

Suddenly the crowd stands, clapping begins, and amongst the masses you can see the girls being lined up in their beautiful gowns. Slowly they are led out, receive their rose and go stand by their appropriate chair. All the time being very glamous with hand waving, and elegant smiles. A lot of clapping happens, some whistles and speeches (of which none of us understand). AND THEN THE QUEEN COMES OUT....she really was beautiful and her wave was much better than the other girls~

So after the actual crowning, the dancing happens and then the real entertainment began. Well, in our eyes at least. Apparently there are only two requirements to being in charge of the fireworks at a fiesta; you must smoke, so you can light the fireworks of course, and you must be able to run like hell for when your fireworks get out of hand. The firework show began with this haphazard metal structure that had various whistles and lights and sparkles and whatever else. The firework "master" would light each one by cigarette and then jump back as sparks flew everywhere. That's when the roof caught on fire. However, no one seemed to mind as they continued the show. And everyone just casually stepped off? Then the big boomers were shot into the sky. And when I say "shot into the sky", I mean they were shot up about 40 feet, so all of the burning debris fell on us, the crowd. Embers were on peoples clothes, in their hair (the Mexican guy behind me started swatting me on my head as my hair seemed to be on fire). The whole time, all of us were laughing hysterically. I mean where else would you go in this world where something so dangerous would be so ignored? I am still chuckling to myself as I think about the whole affair...

After that we all headed home, afterall the crowning didn't begin until ten. Plus the parade was begining at 8am the next morning. And we would have to make it to the parade! Where else would we be able to see los ninos dressed up as mini-guerillas, or futbol players, or driving their 76 red camaro's with radios mounted on the back? Yes, I may find my future husband in Los Barriles...I mean come on' 76 camero's...

All in all the fiesta was muy bueno. I'm so glad I got to be a part of it!

Vive Mexico.

Friday, the 17th

I've made it through yet another week and the sun is still shinning through-out the Baja peninsula. Others have told me that it will be getting "'cold" very soon, but I really doubt that our versions of cold weather are the same. Sometimes by 8am I have a light sweat even with shorts and tank tops, while some of the locals have long sleeve shirts and pants on? IT'S 80 DEGREES OUT...that calls for SHORTS and TANK TOPS!

The last week has been fun, no more driving through arches and pulling bikes off the top of my car or anything of the sort. Instead it has been more of a social week, including a lunch in San Jose with Peter, a friend of a friend. He took us to this great little restaurant where I had my first fish taco and margarita. Yes, believe it or not, I've been in Mexico for 9 days now and had not had a margy? Plenty of Pacifico's, but no margaritas. After our great meal we all headed to Costco for a little shopping spree. For those of you who did not know, Costco is prevelant in Mexico, it's amazing. I was simply going for a salmon and a bag of avocado's, but made the mistake of offering a costco run to anyone within the RV park...holy crap I've never seen such a big list! The car was filled, to the brim, honestly! Lesson to be learned here, don't offer to go to Costco for EVERYONE unless you want to spend all day there. (universal lesson).

The driving is getting a little better for me here, I've learned the following road rules, for any of you planning on driving in Mexico any time soon:

1. If you are following behind a truck and they put their left blinker on, they are telling you it is "ok" to pass them. Now, whether you trust them always...that is the question. It seems that the Mexicans are willing to pass when seeing the "curva peligrosa", or when the lines become solid and the sign says (my translation) "don't even think of passing as you will die". So you must, again, use your instinct as to whether your life is of value.

2. When they put their hazards on, they are indicating to slow down as there is a hazard in the road. Like a cow, or 3 cows as we saw the other night. The hazards may also indicate, "hey my 76 toyota pick-up truck can't go faster than 26 mph downhill, please pass me".

3. It is also ok to do a u-turn, anywhere, anytime. In fact, some of the places you want to go are only accessible by u-turning in front of on coming traffic at full speed. This equates to about 25 mph in the Pathfinder. But thus far, I've made it...thankfully I had Peter there to encourage me - yelling "GO".

4. And lastly, BE AGGRESSIVE. BE AGGRESSIVE. BE AGGRESSIVE.

I also got to see a bit of the night-life, going to "Tio Pablos" for dinner and a little karokee. Holy crap. There was so much to see and say, I'll just leave it at there seems to be a little side business for some of the mexican women here, it includes wearing short small things and hitting on the American fisherman coming into town...dancing eroticatically...kissing and laughing...and whip cream. And then you have the older american people that live here full time (or at least six months of the year) - and whoa - they think this is their time on American Idol. Ahh, so much more to say about that experience, but will leave for another time.

Now I'm outside of Los Barriles, past Punta Pescadera, at Aunt Regina and Uncle Johnny's compound. I came out to visit for a couple of days and have had the great pleasure of meeting some of their amazing friends, partaking in some awesome food, great conversation and of course, my favorite, hearing the waves crash at your door. I will stay here until Saturday, then I must challenge the road again, thank god for the 4-wheel drive on the Pathfinder, and head back to town for a festival on Saturday...complete with cock fights and dancing. The festival that is!

My best to all of you ...

Voy en Los Barriles, Baja Sur, Mexico

2200 Miles and $269.00 USD later I have arrived. I am here people, in sunny Los Barriles, Mexico. And Just to make you all a little jealous (particularly the Seattle people) the weather is sunny, high 80's with a bit of breeze. Thank god, since 89 degrees seems almost unbearable so the slight breeze provides a bit of reprive for me, and the dog. She has been panting for the last 4 days straight! She can barely walk in the middle of the afternoon for the ground is too hot for her! So she just lies in the shade, panting. Maybe I should get her those booties...only kidding...only kidding.

So, I'm sure many of you are wondering what I have done with myself in the last 10 days. I will forwarn, there have been some trials and turbulations along the way, so read on my fellow friends and I will try and recount as accurately as I can.

Since I was so far behind schedule I ended up leaving at 10:30 on Wednesday morning, the first of November, traveling to Grants Pass, Oregon that night. This got me in around 5:45pm to some crappy RV (well, let's be honest-mobile home park) where I was told I could camp in a "field" with the dog. After listening 3 times to the instructions on how to get to this field I set up camp, in the rain, and began preparing my dinner. That's when I heard some little kid say, "mommy, who is that". I of course was the only person in the field that he could be talking about so I poked my head out and said, "is this not the camping area"...apparently I was preparing for my squatting skills in Mexico. The camp area was across the street and down the block. There was some cursing on my part as I drug my tent down the street in the rain...

The next couple of days proved to be more of the same, driving the 5, wondering what was happening around the world, and with my car. I was having a slight tipping problem with it (not that it was going to tip over), but thankful after multiple stops at various mechanics, etc. I was able to figure out the problem and have the parts shipped to San Clemente, California so I wouldn't have to wait in any one town.

Along the way, I was able to spend the day in downtown San Francisco with my friend Erin. She got to show me a bit of her neighborhood and have a lovely lunch (realize I've been camping people-soup, Cliff bars and oatmeal for three days makes mentioning a nice lunch). Then I was off to Monterey to spend the night with my friend Michael and his ever hospitable girlfriend Sue. Again I was treated to yummy food, which I should have taken a picture of the multitude of items Sue set out for us. It was a campers dream come true! The next day, we went to the beach, with a stop-off at the pier where the 300lb sea lions, otters, walrus or whatever they are live. Michael thought it would be funny to bring Madison there and see her reaction. I forewarned him, that she may try and go after them and that he would need to hold the leash and take charge of her. Surprisingly she didn't do anything, not even bark at them, but I think she was overwhelmed by what smelled so bad, and what large beast was barking at her? So we left to go play at the beach. All dogs are welcome there and just frolic with everyone else, so while Michael and I played frisbee (with beer in hand) she got to chase the ball, waves, or whatever else she desired. It is really a dog heaven, I'd move there just so I could hang out at the beach. However, my un-employed status would not afford me the luxury of renting the cheapest, crapiest place in Monterey or nearby. Laymans terms-that place is expensive!

Sunday I left and continued heading South, eventually landing in Encinitas beach. More money, tons of surfboards, and I think a lot of plastic surgery? This was my stop over before heading over the boader.

Wednesday the 8th. Do I have everything I need?
I got over the border around 9am, it was a breeze, so much so I didn't realize I had crossed it until I was 10 minutes on the Mex 1. This proved to be a bit problematic as I had need to get my Visa at the border, along with insurance and whatever else I needed. So I decided to chance it and drive to Rosarito Beach and try and get the papers. Quickly I was realizing that wasn't going to work-that's when my friend John called, and I answered. He laughed at me, and asked me if I was "stressed" yet? And "welcome to Mexico". I continued on to Ensenada per something Uncle Johnny (My friends Uncle that lives down here) had written to me about getting my Visa stamped there. Ahh, I found an immigration office, and after smiling a lot, found a immigration officer that was willing to be helpful to me. An hour and a half later, yes, things in Mexico are slower, I got my needed papers and continued my journey. I was getting nervous by 3pm as I was a long ways from my first stop and being winter the sun sets early making driving at night inevitable. There is one bit of advice everyone has given me over, and over and over again. Don't drive at night. It is the cardinal rule. Why I wasn't sure.

As the sun set, and I was in the middle of nowhere, and I realize that the road sign, "curva peligrosa" really meant dangerous curve I continued my drive. I had no other choice. I should have, in hindsight, counted the number of "curva peligrosa" signs, along with the number of roadside crosses, as I'm sure they were in the hundreds. Finally at 7:30 that night I reached San Quintin. It was in the middle of nowhere! But unlike prisioners in the 60's - I was happy to see the little San Quintin oasis!

Left early the next morning with the intention of driving as fast and far as possible. I needed to be done with this drive at this point. My butt was sore, my neck out of alignment, constantly hungry and hot and thristy. Woe is me, huh? But I needed to be a bit settled. So after hitting about a hundred bugs with my windshield, passing quite a few military checkpoints, where the boys loved me (the girl with the candy) I arrived in Insurgents with the idea of getting gas and finding a hotel room. Let me add, I had just enough gas to get me to Insurgents (5-10 miles left to spare) and about 170 pesos (17.00 USD) to my name. No-one was taking credit cards along the way so I was paying in cash and using it all up. And lo and behold the Pemex in Insurgents would also not take my credit card-panic was slightly starting to settle in. What would I do? So the gas guy told me that the Pemex in Instucion would take my CC - I gave him 100 (cien) pesos and said "fill it only with 100 pesos worth". Thankfully my father's nerdy engineering skills have rubbed off on me and I have calculated how far I can go per km/mph - litros/gallons. So I made it to Instucion with the intentions of filling up and getting a hotel room. This is when I started realizing this was not my day. No hotel rooms were available. None. Anywhere. Possibly in La Paz the hotel gal said. Mindful of the fact that it was 6:30 and La Paz was 2 hours away I realized this entailed more night driving. Again, the cardinal rule. But the other cardinal rule people mentioned was don't camp anywhere alone. So I drove it. My thumbs are still numb from gripping the steering wheel so hard for the two hours. Finally I reached La Paz around nine in search of a hotel that would allow a dog. This is where the true testament of my desire to continue this alone came into play. As I drove though the arch to a hotel that "may" accept dogs, I tore off my bike, rack and everything else on top of the car. As I stepped out of the car to look at what happened the hotel guy came running out and my heart sank as I saw my bike dangling off to the other side and that the entire rack had dislodged from the top of the car. I just kept saying to him, "lo siento" as I looked at the huge pile of bricks I tore off and all the debris on the pavement. And then I put my head on the side of the car in shame, and pure exhaustion. After a couple of minutes I lifted my head and said, "tengo mi perra, ok" I have my dog, ok - and as I looked behind him I saw the sign that said "no dogs". But, he took one look at me (I think he thought I was going to start sobbing) and he said, "you-ok with dog-one night". Needless to say, I slept about four hours in constant horror that the dog would bark and I would get kicked out. And, trying to figure out how I was going to proceed with out my rack, etc. Too many of my things were being stored in the sky box, plus the bike. I have a bunch of rope, and tie downs and duct tape with me, so I strategized all night about what to do.

The next morning I was out working on the car at 5am. It wasn't really as bad as it looked (although John, I will be buying you a new sky box when I return). I was able to get the rack back on (thank god I brough allen and crescent wrenches with me) with the help of this cute little Mexican guy who was about 65 yo. The bike needs lots of help (again sorry John after you went to so much work getting it all fixed up) bent wheel - etc. And the bike skid (where the bike sits) is totaled - but I may be able to get that fixed at a welding shop. Otherwise I will need convince someone driving down to bring a new one. My memory served me well from when Mary and I were down here 7 years ago and I found the place where we rented kayaks and thankful they pointed me in a direction to a bike repair shop that could help me out. I didn't want to stay there until ten so I continued on for the last two hours of my journey. And that brought me in to Los Barriles. Where I am today - typing all of this.

Tonight I have been invited to a potluck and last night I had the best sushi every with 9 other people in the RV park. It cost $19 USD for all you can eat sushi - a bit expensive in terms of someone spending 6 months on the road in Mexico - but well worth it after all I endured! I am starting to explore and will have more to add later.

As a side note to all of this, I still am glad to be here. And for all of you that sent cards I have been reading them on the road. It is nice to feel a bit of connection even when being so distant. Thank you so much for the kind words and strong support - I will take that all with me on my travels.

Until the next time - Heidi and Madison and a broken down bike.